Free Mixed Media Magazine – showcasing the work of the Powertex UK design team.
Author: Kore Sage
Kore Sage is a mixed media artist and Powerex tutor working in Brighton, UK.
Kore is a member of the Adur Art Collective and is a Level 3 Certified Powertex Tutor and a member of the 2018 Powertex UK Design Team. She runs demonstrations, workshops and tutoring across Brighton, Hove and Shoreham as SkySage Studio.
I also used Easy Structure, Red Bister spray and White and Lilac Powercolor but these are totally optional. I added a square of corrugated card packaging, if you have it.
How to make this gothic mixed media art
Prepare your mdf frame
Use the black Powertex Universal Medium to paint and glue your frame together with the raised square in the centre.
Add texture to the frame
Scrape Easy Structure over the outer frame. Dry with a hairdryer before coating with Black Powertex.
TIP: I also sprayed with Red Bister but these steps are optional. You can use any texture you like and the stencil would also be great for this.
Corrugated card texture
I tore a square of cardboard packing for the centre. I used Black Powertex to paint this piece completely and to glue it down.
Add fabric texture
Massage some Black Powertex into some of the loose fabric until it’s completely coated but not too wet. Press it into place with Powertex.
Layer mdf pieces
Paint your mdf pieces and embellishments completely with Powertex as you stick them on. Start with larger pieces and add more until your happy with the placement.
Use a plaster skull as your focal point. I placed it in the centre of the spider’s web. Don’t worry about finger marks as we’ll fix those later!
TOP TIP: If any of your pieces aren’t sticking well, use pieces of kitchen paper in Powertex as a sticky pad to hold them in place.
Add small textures for detail. Use Powercotton threads and the medium balls in areas that look a bit empty. Coat everything with Black Powertex and leave to dry.
For this piece we mix a dry paint using the Easy Varnish and powder pigments. Use a flat paintbrush to dry brush the textures.
TOP TIPS: Put a tiny amount of varnish on a craft mat and use a flat brush to pull some to the side. Dip your brush into the powder and mix this with the varnish. Mix a little at a time.
Start with dark colours first, dragging your brush over the top of the textures. Build up colour in layers and add highlights with the Interference colour or White at the end.
Everything you need to make brilliant gothic style mixed media art is in the Secret Art Box this October. I hope you’ll have a go and share your creation in The Powertex Studio Facebook group. Use #powertexaddict on Instagram so we can find you!
Gill’s creation uses the same Powertex UK subscription box and you can find out about the Secret Art Box subscription at Powertex UK.
Until next time, make a little time to let your art out!
I was inspired this month by Abigail’s Stone Art Clay Pendant as I wanted to try the stamping into clay technique. Using her tutorial I created my own Powertex stamped pendant.
I quite like small projects like these that can be done quickly but have very satisfying results. It’s a great gift idea too.
I didn’t have a bauble shape for mine so I used an mdf ring shape like these. I chose the Studio Light letters and numbers stamp to create the pattern in my clay. It’s a personal favourite as I love using letters and numbers in my projects.
I followed Abigail’s steps from the tutorial and despite using different shapes it was easy to follow and really quick to do. There’s a break for the clay to dry but this can be sped up with a hairdryer if you like.
Making a Powertex Stamped Pendant
Simply mix up some air dry clay with Red Powertex Fabric Hardener and roll out a layer for your mdf. Stamping into the clay creates a clear texture.
I love the way the Bister spray deepens the textures. A quick blast with a hairdryer makes this step fast.
I used my clay over the edge of the mdf and wrapped the Powertex with string on the side to keep it neat.
With a dab of clay I added a large jump ring to the top of my pendant. I left mine to dry overnight.
The Powerwax and pigment mix softens the finish on the pendant. You can also mix your pigments with Easy Varnish and use a dry brushing technique over the textures.
Another jump ring and some cord and I have a lightweight statement necklace.
I used some of the very small mdf circles to create a couple of tiny pieces. These could be made into earrings or rings with some basic jewellery findings. Customising this piece with your favourite colours or stamps is so easy too. These would make lovely handmade gifts.
I hope you’ll give a pendant a try or maybe take the techniques and create something else! Remember you can share your makes at The Powertex Studio on Facebook or follow us on Instagram.
Until then, make a little time to let your art out.
The August Secret Art Box included a personalised initial in mdf, a stencil, papers, a quote stamp and textured fabrics. Also Lead Powertex fabric hardener and colour pigments were in Aqua ink and Blue Bister granules. There was so much in the box to use but I knew straight away that I wanted to use Rusty Powder with the mdf, ink and Bister to create rusty letter art.
Laying down the first textures with printed papers and Lead Powertex Fabric Hardener to cover the canvas.
2. Create background textures
Use Easy Structure with a plastic palette knife through the stencil. Clean your stencil straight away.
3. Build fabric layers
I added fabric textures to build up a background for the mdf letter. Lead Powertex hardens and adheres the fabric. Use a hairdryer to dry.
4. Add mdf letters and shapes
To create depth I used White Powertex to paint and glue the mdf letter and shapes. I painted it lightly over most of the background. Dry with a hairdryer.
TIP: Ivory Powertex Fabric Hardener will also work well if you don’t have White.
5. Spray Aqua ink
Spray the Aqua ink generously over the textures, let it pool, drip and run off to the side.
6. Add Rusty Powder
Mix up 1 tbsp Transparent Powertex with a little white vinegar and 1/2 – 1 tbsp Rusty Powder. Pour onto the letter, background and fabrics. (It will look grey and the rust will take a few hours to form.)
TIP: For a thicker rust mixture add 3D Sand or Small balls
7. Using Bister granules
Add spots of Transparent Powertex and sprinkle Bister granules onto wet areas. Spray with water and vinegar spray so the colour runs.
TIP: Using white vinegar in the water spray alters the colour of the Bister and encourages the rust.
I used Powercotton strands coated with White Powertex to look like vines around the letter.
Brush up highlights
White Powertex is dry brushed on highlights over the whole canvas using a flat brush.
I repeated the Rusty Powder and Bister granules until I was happy with the contrast. Highlighting with White or Ivory Powertex at the end just lifts the letters away from the background. You can layer up as much as you like.
There’s so much left in the Secret Art Box I’ll be making more with these supplies. Tutor Gill has also used this month’s subscription box here.
Hi this is Kore and this month I got my hands on my first Powertex Secret Art Box! I was really surprised how much was packed into the box and the sample sizes of Powertex products are perfect. It was full of gorgeous things and I used just a few of the items to make this Venetian mask.
I loved the colours chosen for this box, Plum acrylic paint, Turquoise and Berry pigments which look beautiful together. There is lots left for future creations too. I think this would be a great way to try Powertex Fabric Hardener for the first time or build up your supplies. The themed box is a great starting point if you’re stuck for an idea.
I worked on the large mdf mask in the box to create a wall art. I’ll make the second mask to hang with it too.
Powertex planets are a fun and easy canvas project to try. It doesn’t take much in the way of supplies and if you’ve used stencils or masks before you’re half way there! With Powertex you really can use basic techniques for amazing results.
Prep your canvas with Blue Powertex Fabric Hardener and while it’s drying cut your circle masks. Draw around plates or lids and carefully cut out. Keep both parts.
Spray the background
Arrange your circular masks. Darken the background with Black Bister Spray. Vary the amount around the canvas. Leave this to dry naturally.
Paint the planets
Swap the mask for the stencil on each planet and paint the circle with a layer of Ivory Powertex, not too thin. Do one at a time!
Spray the Bister
While the Powertex is still wet, leave the stencil in place and spray generously with Bister in your chosen colour. Notice I’ve protected the canvas.
Create the Bister crackles
Heat the Bister with a hairdryer until cracks start to form in the surface. A heatgun or tool can be too hot for this. Repeat these steps for all your planets.
Put half a teaspoon of Ivory Powertex on a plate and use a very wet paintbrush to splatter it across the surface for stars. I had a practice on paper first!
One of my planets had smeared a lot so I tidied it up with a bit of Blue Powertex and Black Bister when it was dry. I didn’t worry too much about the others and I thought they looked pretty good. I love the blue Powertex coming through the Black Bister too!
Top Tips for Powertex planets
Each planet will take a while to dry so be careful when masking the rest of your canvas. I used a piece of printer paper held near my planets while I sprayed them. Using more than one colour of Bister on a planet to give it a darker side helps them look dimensional. Try Easy Structure paste or 3d balls to add texture before you add Bister.
Thanks for reading my blog today. I hope you will have a go at painting your own Powertex planets! If you do, please share your art in the Powertex Facebook group as we love to see what you make.
I’m lucky enough to live a short walk from the sea. I love to visit under the moonlight and listen to the waves. The colours of the water and the beach are so magical under a full moon. The nautical themed mdf was perfect for creating moonlit sea scenes.
The lighthouse had a lovely message in this piece. That no matter how deep the water gets, trust that you will find your way. I hope my plaques inspire you to create your own underwater scenes.
Metallic pigments for a moonlit night
Metallic pigments are perfect for creating a moonlit glow on my scenes. For the base colour I used Black Powertex on one design and White Powertex on the other.
On this first plaque, I used Black Powertex to paint and adhere layers of mdf with a nautical theme. Stone Art clay was used in the tiny ammonite mould for the little fossils. I also used lumps of the clay for rocks, building dimension and lifting the mdf shapes.
Tiny fabric scraps, 3d balls and Powercotton completed the underwater look. I left it to dry before adding the colours.
Pigments were mixed with Easy Varnish and dry brushed over the textures. I use Golden Olive, Violet Valentine and Blue Curacao which made a beautiful moonlit glow.
Ivory Powertex and Bister
My second scene used Ivory Powertex to paint the pieces and adhere it all together. I used tissue paper and cardboard for the back ground. Stone Art clay built up the scene with the mdf shapes. Small, medium 3d balls and sand added extra texture.
When dry I sprayed it heavily with Blue and Black Bister sprays. I used a strong Rust mix and poured this over some of the textures. I sprayed this with a vinegar and water mix.
When that was all dry I chose Aqua Metallic ink and Copper pigment to highlight my textures.
These watery moonlit sea scenes were really fun to create and will look great hanging in my home. Be inspired and have a try yourself. Do share your makes over on the Facebook group too, we love to see your creations. Or you can tag us on Instagram with #powertexaddict
If you like the watery theme you might also like this project. You can also find more of my Powertex art at Kore Sage Art. Until next time, find some time to let your art out.
Make a Powertex DIY lamp for lovely gifts or home decor and with Powertex you can make your own. Powertex fabric sculpture and fairy lights are an easy way to craft a lamp. I’m using battery powered LED fairy lights. Be sure to use LED lights for you project as these keep cool. Do not use a flame candle in this lamp.
I’m Kore and I want to show you how I made my own Powertex lamp using a bottle for a “mould”, simple Powertex techniques and a pack of battery LED fairy lights. Choose your own favourite embellishments to create the lamp in your own style. I’m using white fairy lights but coloured lights would be lovely too.
Wrap your bottle with plastic and secure with small pieces of tape. Don’t wrap too tight and ensure there are no holes.
Wrap the bottle
Using fabric with Powertex, cover the bottom of the bottle first and apply strips in spirals upwards. Leave gaps in the wrapping for the light.
Decorate with embellishments
I used Powertex Ivory to add some 3d balls, mdf drop outs and letters. The structure is sturdy but avoid heavy embellishments at the top.
Colour with Bister spray
Spray generously with Ready Made Bister Spray. Don’t forget the underneath, I left the inside Ivory.
I used a damp cloth to wipe back some of the Bister from the raised textures.
Add some shine
Metallics add a little extra shine on a lamp. I mixed Rich Gold powder pigment with Easy Varnish and dry brushed some textures.
I hope you have a go at making a lamp. Do share your creations with us in the Facebook group at Powertex Addicts United. If you’ve enjoyed this idea you might also want to take a look at Donna’s bottle light project too.
You can find more of my art and Powertex at Kore Sage Art but until next time, I hope you find some time to let your art out.
Pastel colours can be mixed with Powertex universal medium to create soft effects for your projects. Pastel Powertex is perfect for Spring projects, florals and even Mother’s Day gifts. I’m Kore and I want to show you how I mix pastel colours and highlight the textures. I’ll be transforming small glass drink bottles into floral Spring vases.
Powertex Universal Medium colours are all mixable and with the exception of Transparent, will be weatherproof when cured. Pastel colours can be mixed using Ivory or White although I used Ivory for my project.
I recommend you experiment with tiny amounts of your colours to find your favourite combinations. I’m using my favourite pale blue. I add small amounts of blue Powertex to Ivory (or White) until I have a shade I like.
It is possible to mix more than two colours together. For example Blue and Yellow Ochre to make green then mix with Ivory for a lighter shade.
Flower and butterfly embellishments such as in a Treasure Box
Prepare the fabric
Cut strips of light fabric approximately 1-2 inches wide, pieces of string 2 – 4 inches long and choose embellishments.
Mix pastel Powertex
Pour your Ivory Powertex onto a plate or dish and add a tiny amount of Blue Powertex. Add a little until you have a pastel shade.
Wrap the bottle
Coat fabric strips with the Powertex mix and wrap around the bottle until it’s covered. Wrap loosely in spirals.
Add string and floral embellishments. I created spiral shapes with string and coated embellishments with Powertex and adhered them to the bottle.
Mix dry paint
Mix a dry paint with white Powercolor and Easy Varnish
Use a dry brushing technique to highlight the textures of the fabric and the enbellishments. Keep your brush flat and in the same direction.
Pastel Powertex bottle
These Spring vases use simple techniques to create textured vases that can be made in your favourite colours. They look lovely in groups with your favourite single stem flowers.
Please do leave me a comment if you would like to try Powertex in pastels. Or hop over to this article where Abigail is mixing purple for her mixed media project. Like our Facebook page where you can join the private group and share your own makes.
I hope you make some time to let your art out. Find more of my work at Kore Sage Art, until next time, Kore x
Powertex Art Doll time on the blog again. These kits are a wonderful project to do if you’re looking to spread your creative wings. The template gives you a starting point with lots of room to try new techniques and ideas. I used a few techniques on my art doll to represent “time flies” but you could just choose the parts you like. That’s the beauty of these kits. Having no rules can be scary like a blank canvas but just try a technique or two that you like and make it yours. Here she is, my Powertex art doll using the small template.
First pop out your Mdf shapes and try some layouts that you like. When you’re settled on a placement, start to prepare your pieces. I tore up a piece of rice paper to roughly fit the body. The theme is “time flies” so I chose a paper with pocket watches on. This fits the rectangular base of the “box”.
Gathering some of my favourite embellishments makes the art doll unique. I added a circle of hessian fabric that was hardened with Black Powertex, to support the plaster face because I wanted to tilt her head. Small wooden shapes add interest and the Mdf drop outs were perfect for this. At this stage I decided I wanted to give her two halves.
Powertex art doll time, assemble the pieces
To start, get your pieces together with your chosen Powertex and a flat paintbrush. Apply the pocket watch rice paper to the mdf using Easy Coat Matt. Brush it onto the mdf first and lay the paper on top and gently coat with a brush, from the centre outwards. Easy Coat allows any accidental Powertex to be wiped away from the paper. Transparent Powertex will also work but will be less wipeable.
With Black Powertex, start to assemble your doll by painting and sticking the pieces together. Be careful to turn the base panel so the holes are at the bottom. Layer the “frame” underneath the “box” and do not add the bottom panel. Put the “hooks” into place here with the hooks facing forwards. I waited until the textures had been added but you can do it at this stage. Focus on painting the front first and paint the back when it’s dry. At this stage you can start to see how you can decorate your art doll.
While the doll is drying, it’s a great time to prepare any embellishments with acrylic paint, Black and Ivory powertex. Decorate your pieces how you like but at this stage I’m starting to identify which pieces I want to be coloured and which pieces I’m keeping Black or Ivory. Don’t forget the “leg” pieces too, I prepared these with acrylic paints.
When your doll is touch dry use Easy Structure on a plastic palette knife to add thick texture on the wings and around the sides of the body. Use the paste to hide the hard edges where the “frame” part is used to lift up the box. Create indentations and marks on the wings and sides.
At this point I’m also starting to define the two halves of the doll using Ivory Powertex on the box sides and on the rays around her head. Leave this to dry for several hours as the Easy Structure is quite thick in places.
Rusty Powder adds real rust texture and colour. I wanted a dark rust that would show off layers of the transparent acrylic paints on one side but appear very dark on the other side. The mixture I made is Rusty Powder 50/50 with Transparent Powertex and a little white vinegar. Use 3d sand to thicken the mixture and 3d small balls to add texture. Prepare a spray bottle with white vinegar and water and make sure it has plenty of vinegar for a dark rust, about 40%.
Plastic palette knives are perfect for applying the rusty mixture over the wings, head base (not the plaster) and the sides. Paste a little on the “leg” pieces too for texture and colour. Spray these areas generously with the vinegar and water spray and leave it to rust for a few hours before repeating the process. Doing the same again with a slightly weaker rust mixture will give you different shades of rust although this is optional.
The Secret Art Loft acrylic paints from Powertex UK are easy to blend and their transparency makes them perfect for this project. I layered Red Velvet and Orange Marmalade paints onto the rusty areas but only on the left side of the doll. This defined the halves and brightened one side. I also painted the left side of the plaster face with Red Velvet paint and left it to dry. You can repeat these steps as often as you need to get the colour you like.
The body of the art doll
The body of the doll is the “box” part and this is a great place to get creative, it’s like a mini canvas. Your chosen rice paper might determine the style of embellishments you use. The rice paper is already in place but I wanted to add some details to the body. I had already prepared my embellishments for this but didn’t use everything that I’d chosen. Coat a small wooden heart with Red Velvet paint and use transparent Powertex to adhere some Small balls. Paint it again with red paint when dry. Glue the heart and silver key in place with Transparent Powertex.
Paint some tiny circles from the drop outs pack in Black and Ivory Powertex to match the dark and light sides of the doll. The threads you can see criss-crossing over the doll are threads pulled from some hessian fabric. Cut strands roughly to size, cover them in black Powertex and leave to dry on a plastic mat while checking they are straight.
When dry, use Transparent Powertex to stick these into a criss-cross pattern over the box. After this, use the drop out circles to cover the ends of the threads and create a pattern around the edge. Coat the body and the hooks on the right side of the doll with Ivory. Your doll is coming together nicely but there’s something crucial missing!
The doll’s head
Transparent Powertex is perfect as a glue to keep the plaster face in place, slightly tilted to one side. Cut six chunks of Powercotton into thick pieces about 3 inches long to create the hair. Lay them on a non stick mat and use a paintbrush to carefully push Ivory Powertex into the fibres however try to keep the strands fairly straight and not too tangled! Brush down in the same direction until the Powertex is massaged into the fibres. When it’s well coated, curl the pieces around the head and down the side of the doll keeping lots of texture. You could apply hair to both sides of course but I chose to keep the “halves” of the doll.
When I applied the curls they were starting to fall quite flat so I used some Large 3d balls underneath and in her hair to keep it propped up! I just glued them in place with Transparent Powertex. In addition, this added extra texture and where the balls could be seen they looked like bubbles in her hair!
To add a bit of colour and texture to this side, I brushed her face, hair and small cardboard stars with Ivory Powertex, pushed the stars into her hair and sprinkled a little Rusty Powder over the wet Powertex. I spritzed a quick spray of the vinegar and water mixture to get the rusting started and because the spray is strong I didn’t need to repeat it.
There’s just a few finishing touches before our doll is ready to display. I’ve already painted the “legs” and given them a rust treatment so now I just paint one leg with Ivory to match the light side. Fit paperfasteners through the holes as “knees” and “hips” for the doll so the legs could hang underneath. Dab black Powertex on the paper fasteners to cover their metallic colour.
The tiny padlock was given the rust treatment earlier and was attached with a little jump ring. I chose tiny keys from the Treasure box which were hung on jump rings and then off the hooks at the bottom. Brush a quick flick of Ivory Powertex to add a highlight to the red side of her face and she’s done!
I can really recommend the art dolls if you like a project you can get creative with. The clock is next on my list! The design team members have created their own unique art dolls and you can see them here.
Time flies Powertex art doll
I hope you enjoyed the art dolls project as much as I have. Join us over on Facebook if you have a Powertex project to share, just pop by Powertex Addicts United and join The Powertex Studio group. We love to see your makes and it’s a great place to get some inspiration or ask questions. You can find out more about me and my art on Facebook at Kore Sage Art.
Powertex Stone art is a product for creating fine textures, faux stone effect and of course air drying clay. Use with Powertex Universal Medium for convincing stone results.
Hi it’s Kore! So this month is all about Stone Art at Powertex HQ. It’s the perfect opportunity to show you a favourite technique of mine. I’m demonstrating how to create a faux stone effect on almost any surface. In this demonstration I’ll be using a piece of styrofoam. Watch the video for my demonstration and pop the sound on. I’ve listed my supplies below.
Pop the sound on for this video demonstration or continue for photo description.
Put a little Powertex medium onto your plate and use your fingers to apply it unevenly to the surface, not too thin. Wear a glove for this if you like.
Applying Stone Art
Use a dry hand to sprinkle Stone Art powder onto the wet Powertex. Cover it completely and be generous. Don’t worry we won’t waste any! Press the Stone Art onto the wet Powertex firmly. Use your fingers to brush off any excess powder into your spare container. Repeat this process as many times as you like to create your textures. You can apply it more in some areas. I recommend leaving to dry for a while before moving to the next step. You can use a hairdryer to speed this up if you wish.
Buffing your textures
When you have your dry layers of Stone Art we want to remove any loose powder. Use your fingers flat over the textures, rubbing firmly to remove any Stone Art that’s not stuck down. Any loose powder can be saved into your container and used again. It will be more textured than the “new” Stone Art. Buff over the whole piece until your happy. You should be able to see your textures well now.
Using Bister sprays
To make the most of the textures, spray Bister generously onto the piece. You can use any colours, layer them up and mix them together. Dry them off in between if you like. I find the more the better here.
Next use a damp sponge to wipe the Bister from the raised areas. This creates highlights. Repeat these steps until you get a result you like. The Bister is water based and not permanent so you can wipe this back and repeat as much as you like.
You can use this technique on most surfaces including glass, canvas and wood. If you have a plastic surface, the Powertex will likely peel off. It’s a good idea to prime the surface first with masking tape, gesso or a spray primer.
As Bister is not permanent you may wish to seal your project with varnish. You can use Easy Varnish but a spray varnish will also work well. These pieces make great bases for animal sculptures! Note that Stone Art is made of paper and varnish is also highly flammable so is not suitable for use with real candles.
I hope you’ve learnt something you can use. There are other Stone Art projects on the blog if you feel inspired. If you have a question about this technique, leave me a comment and I’ll do my best to help.