Free Mixed Media Magazine – showcasing the work of the Powertex UK design team.
Author: Kore Sage
Kore Sage is a mixed media artist and Powerex tutor working in Brighton, UK.
Kore is a member of the Adur Art Collective and is a Level 3 Certified Powertex Tutor and a member of the 2018 Powertex UK Design Team. She runs demonstrations, workshops and tutoring across Brighton, Hove and Shoreham as SkySage Studio.
I’m lucky enough to live a short walk from the sea. I love to visit under the moonlight and listen to the waves. The colours of the water and the beach are so magical under a full moon. The nautical themed mdf was perfect for creating moonlit sea scenes.
The lighthouse had a lovely message in this piece. That no matter how deep the water gets, trust that you will find your way. I hope my plaques inspire you to create your own underwater scenes.
Metallic pigments for a moonlit night
Metallic pigments are perfect for creating a moonlit glow on my scenes. For the base colour I used Black Powertex on one design and White Powertex on the other.
On this first plaque, I used Black Powertex to paint and adhere layers of mdf with a nautical theme. Stone Art clay was used in the tiny ammonite mould for the little fossils. I also used lumps of the clay for rocks, building dimension and lifting the mdf shapes.
Tiny fabric scraps, 3d balls and Powercotton completed the underwater look. I left it to dry before adding the colours.
Pigments were mixed with Easy Varnish and dry brushed over the textures. I use Golden Olive, Violet Valentine and Blue Curacao which made a beautiful moonlit glow.
Ivory Powertex and Bister
My second scene used Ivory Powertex to paint the pieces and adhere it all together. I used tissue paper and cardboard for the back ground. Stone Art clay built up the scene with the mdf shapes. Small, medium 3d balls and sand added extra texture.
When dry I sprayed it heavily with Blue and Black Bister sprays. I used a strong Rust mix and poured this over some of the textures. I sprayed this with a vinegar and water mix.
When that was all dry I chose Aqua Metallic ink and Copper pigment to highlight my textures.
These watery moonlit sea scenes were really fun to create and will look great hanging in my home. Be inspired and have a try yourself. Do share your makes over on the Facebook group too, we love to see your creations. Or you can tag us on Instagram with #powertexaddict
If you like the watery theme you might also like this project. You can also find more of my Powertex art at Kore Sage Art. Until next time, find some time to let your art out.
Make a Powertex DIY lamp for lovely gifts or home decor and with Powertex you can make your own. Powertex fabric sculpture and fairy lights are an easy way to craft a lamp. I’m using battery powered LED fairy lights. Be sure to use LED lights for you project as these keep cool. Do not use a flame candle in this lamp.
I’m Kore and I want to show you how I made my own Powertex lamp using a bottle for a “mould”, simple Powertex techniques and a pack of battery LED fairy lights. Choose your own favourite embellishments to create the lamp in your own style. I’m using white fairy lights but coloured lights would be lovely too.
Wrap your bottle with plastic and secure with small pieces of tape. Don’t wrap too tight and ensure there are no holes.
Wrap the bottle
Using fabric with Powertex, cover the bottom of the bottle first and apply strips in spirals upwards. Leave gaps in the wrapping for the light.
Decorate with embellishments
I used Powertex Ivory to add some 3d balls, mdf drop outs and letters. The structure is sturdy but avoid heavy embellishments at the top.
Colour with Bister spray
Spray generously with Ready Made Bister Spray. Don’t forget the underneath, I left the inside Ivory.
I used a damp cloth to wipe back some of the Bister from the raised textures.
Add some shine
Metallics add a little extra shine on a lamp. I mixed Rich Gold powder pigment with Easy Varnish and dry brushed some textures.
I hope you have a go at making a lamp. Do share your creations with us in the Facebook group at Powertex Addicts United. If you’ve enjoyed this idea you might also want to take a look at Donna’s bottle light project too.
You can find more of my art and Powertex at Kore Sage Art but until next time, I hope you find some time to let your art out.
Pastel colours can be mixed with Powertex universal medium to create soft effects for your projects. Pastel Powertex is perfect for Spring projects, florals and even Mother’s Day gifts. I’m Kore and I want to show you how I mix pastel colours and highlight the textures. I’ll be transforming small glass drink bottles into floral Spring vases.
Powertex Universal Medium colours are all mixable and with the exception of Transparent, will be weatherproof when cured. Pastel colours can be mixed using Ivory or White although I used Ivory for my project.
I recommend you experiment with tiny amounts of your colours to find your favourite combinations. I’m using my favourite pale blue. I add small amounts of blue Powertex to Ivory (or White) until I have a shade I like.
It is possible to mix more than two colours together. For example Blue and Yellow Ochre to make green then mix with Ivory for a lighter shade.
Flower and butterfly embellishments such as in a Treasure Box
Prepare the fabric
Cut strips of light fabric approximately 1-2 inches wide, pieces of string 2 – 4 inches long and choose embellishments.
Mix pastel Powertex
Pour your Ivory Powertex onto a plate or dish and add a tiny amount of Blue Powertex. Add a little until you have a pastel shade.
Wrap the bottle
Coat fabric strips with the Powertex mix and wrap around the bottle until it’s covered. Wrap loosely in spirals.
Add string and floral embellishments. I created spiral shapes with string and coated embellishments with Powertex and adhered them to the bottle.
Mix dry paint
Mix a dry paint with white Powercolor and Easy Varnish
Use a dry brushing technique to highlight the textures of the fabric and the enbellishments. Keep your brush flat and in the same direction.
Pastel Powertex bottle
These Spring vases use simple techniques to create textured vases that can be made in your favourite colours. They look lovely in groups with your favourite single stem flowers.
Please do leave me a comment if you would like to try Powertex in pastels. Or hop over to this article where Abigail is mixing purple for her mixed media project. Like our Facebook page where you can join the private group and share your own makes.
I hope you make some time to let your art out. Find more of my work at Kore Sage Art, until next time, Kore x
Powertex Art Doll time on the blog again. These kits are a wonderful project to do if you’re looking to spread your creative wings. The template gives you a starting point with lots of room to try new techniques and ideas. I used a few techniques on my art doll to represent “time flies” but you could just choose the parts you like. That’s the beauty of these kits. Having no rules can be scary like a blank canvas but just try a technique or two that you like and make it yours. Here she is, my Powertex art doll using the small template.
First pop out your Mdf shapes and try some layouts that you like. When you’re settled on a placement, start to prepare your pieces. I tore up a piece of rice paper to roughly fit the body. The theme is “time flies” so I chose a paper with pocket watches on. This fits the rectangular base of the “box”.
Gathering some of my favourite embellishments makes the art doll unique. I added a circle of hessian fabric that was hardened with Black Powertex, to support the plaster face because I wanted to tilt her head. Small wooden shapes add interest and the Mdf drop outs were perfect for this. At this stage I decided I wanted to give her two halves.
Powertex art doll time, assemble the pieces
To start, get your pieces together with your chosen Powertex and a flat paintbrush. Apply the pocket watch rice paper to the mdf using Easy Coat Matt. Brush it onto the mdf first and lay the paper on top and gently coat with a brush, from the centre outwards. Easy Coat allows any accidental Powertex to be wiped away from the paper. Transparent Powertex will also work but will be less wipeable.
With Black Powertex, start to assemble your doll by painting and sticking the pieces together. Be careful to turn the base panel so the holes are at the bottom. Layer the “frame” underneath the “box” and do not add the bottom panel. Put the “hooks” into place here with the hooks facing forwards. I waited until the textures had been added but you can do it at this stage. Focus on painting the front first and paint the back when it’s dry. At this stage you can start to see how you can decorate your art doll.
While the doll is drying, it’s a great time to prepare any embellishments with acrylic paint, Black and Ivory powertex. Decorate your pieces how you like but at this stage I’m starting to identify which pieces I want to be coloured and which pieces I’m keeping Black or Ivory. Don’t forget the “leg” pieces too, I prepared these with acrylic paints.
When your doll is touch dry use Easy Structure on a plastic palette knife to add thick texture on the wings and around the sides of the body. Use the paste to hide the hard edges where the “frame” part is used to lift up the box. Create indentations and marks on the wings and sides.
At this point I’m also starting to define the two halves of the doll using Ivory Powertex on the box sides and on the rays around her head. Leave this to dry for several hours as the Easy Structure is quite thick in places.
Rusty Powder adds real rust texture and colour. I wanted a dark rust that would show off layers of the transparent acrylic paints on one side but appear very dark on the other side. The mixture I made is Rusty Powder 50/50 with Transparent Powertex and a little white vinegar. Use 3d sand to thicken the mixture and 3d small balls to add texture. Prepare a spray bottle with white vinegar and water and make sure it has plenty of vinegar for a dark rust, about 40%.
Plastic palette knives are perfect for applying the rusty mixture over the wings, head base (not the plaster) and the sides. Paste a little on the “leg” pieces too for texture and colour. Spray these areas generously with the vinegar and water spray and leave it to rust for a few hours before repeating the process. Doing the same again with a slightly weaker rust mixture will give you different shades of rust although this is optional.
The Secret Art Loft acrylic paints from Powertex UK are easy to blend and their transparency makes them perfect for this project. I layered Red Velvet and Orange Marmalade paints onto the rusty areas but only on the left side of the doll. This defined the halves and brightened one side. I also painted the left side of the plaster face with Red Velvet paint and left it to dry. You can repeat these steps as often as you need to get the colour you like.
The body of the art doll
The body of the doll is the “box” part and this is a great place to get creative, it’s like a mini canvas. Your chosen rice paper might determine the style of embellishments you use. The rice paper is already in place but I wanted to add some details to the body. I had already prepared my embellishments for this but didn’t use everything that I’d chosen. Coat a small wooden heart with Red Velvet paint and use transparent Powertex to adhere some Small balls. Paint it again with red paint when dry. Glue the heart and silver key in place with Transparent Powertex.
Paint some tiny circles from the drop outs pack in Black and Ivory Powertex to match the dark and light sides of the doll. The threads you can see criss-crossing over the doll are threads pulled from some hessian fabric. Cut strands roughly to size, cover them in black Powertex and leave to dry on a plastic mat while checking they are straight.
When dry, use Transparent Powertex to stick these into a criss-cross pattern over the box. After this, use the drop out circles to cover the ends of the threads and create a pattern around the edge. Coat the body and the hooks on the right side of the doll with Ivory. Your doll is coming together nicely but there’s something crucial missing!
The doll’s head
Transparent Powertex is perfect as a glue to keep the plaster face in place, slightly tilted to one side. Cut six chunks of Powercotton into thick pieces about 3 inches long to create the hair. Lay them on a non stick mat and use a paintbrush to carefully push Ivory Powertex into the fibres however try to keep the strands fairly straight and not too tangled! Brush down in the same direction until the Powertex is massaged into the fibres. When it’s well coated, curl the pieces around the head and down the side of the doll keeping lots of texture. You could apply hair to both sides of course but I chose to keep the “halves” of the doll.
When I applied the curls they were starting to fall quite flat so I used some Large 3d balls underneath and in her hair to keep it propped up! I just glued them in place with Transparent Powertex. In addition, this added extra texture and where the balls could be seen they looked like bubbles in her hair!
To add a bit of colour and texture to this side, I brushed her face, hair and small cardboard stars with Ivory Powertex, pushed the stars into her hair and sprinkled a little Rusty Powder over the wet Powertex. I spritzed a quick spray of the vinegar and water mixture to get the rusting started and because the spray is strong I didn’t need to repeat it.
There’s just a few finishing touches before our doll is ready to display. I’ve already painted the “legs” and given them a rust treatment so now I just paint one leg with Ivory to match the light side. Fit paperfasteners through the holes as “knees” and “hips” for the doll so the legs could hang underneath. Dab black Powertex on the paper fasteners to cover their metallic colour.
The tiny padlock was given the rust treatment earlier and was attached with a little jump ring. I chose tiny keys from the Treasure box which were hung on jump rings and then off the hooks at the bottom. Brush a quick flick of Ivory Powertex to add a highlight to the red side of her face and she’s done!
I can really recommend the art dolls if you like a project you can get creative with. The clock is next on my list! The design team members have created their own unique art dolls and you can see them here.
Time flies Powertex art doll
I hope you enjoyed the art dolls project as much as I have. Join us over on Facebook if you have a Powertex project to share, just pop by Powertex Addicts United and join The Powertex Studio group. We love to see your makes and it’s a great place to get some inspiration or ask questions. You can find out more about me and my art on Facebook at Kore Sage Art.
Powertex Stone art is a product for creating fine textures, faux stone effect and of course air drying clay. Use with Powertex Universal Medium for convincing stone results.
Hi it’s Kore! So this month is all about Stone Art at Powertex HQ. It’s the perfect opportunity to show you a favourite technique of mine. I’m demonstrating how to create a faux stone effect on almost any surface. In this demonstration I’ll be using a piece of styrofoam. Watch the video for my demonstration and pop the sound on. I’ve listed my supplies below.
Pop the sound on for this video demonstration or continue for photo description.
Put a little Powertex medium onto your plate and use your fingers to apply it unevenly to the surface, not too thin. Wear a glove for this if you like.
Applying Stone Art
Use a dry hand to sprinkle Stone Art powder onto the wet Powertex. Cover it completely and be generous. Don’t worry we won’t waste any! Press the Stone Art onto the wet Powertex firmly. Use your fingers to brush off any excess powder into your spare container. Repeat this process as many times as you like to create your textures. You can apply it more in some areas. I recommend leaving to dry for a while before moving to the next step. You can use a hairdryer to speed this up if you wish.
Buffing your textures
When you have your dry layers of Stone Art we want to remove any loose powder. Use your fingers flat over the textures, rubbing firmly to remove any Stone Art that’s not stuck down. Any loose powder can be saved into your container and used again. It will be more textured than the “new” Stone Art. Buff over the whole piece until your happy. You should be able to see your textures well now.
Using Bister sprays
To make the most of the textures, spray Bister generously onto the piece. You can use any colours, layer them up and mix them together. Dry them off in between if you like. I find the more the better here.
Next use a damp sponge to wipe the Bister from the raised areas. This creates highlights. Repeat these steps until you get a result you like. The Bister is water based and not permanent so you can wipe this back and repeat as much as you like.
You can use this technique on most surfaces including glass, canvas and wood. If you have a plastic surface, the Powertex will likely peel off. It’s a good idea to prime the surface first with masking tape, gesso or a spray primer.
As Bister is not permanent you may wish to seal your project with varnish. You can use Easy Varnish but a spray varnish will also work well. These pieces make great bases for animal sculptures! Note that Stone Art is made of paper and varnish is also highly flammable so is not suitable for use with real candles.
I hope you’ve learnt something you can use. There are other Stone Art projects on the blog if you feel inspired. If you have a question about this technique, leave me a comment and I’ll do my best to help.
With the festive season in full swing, it’s a time we give thanks and reflect before moving into the new year. Many of us state intentions and plan to start something new. Maybe you make resolutions or choose a word for the year. I’m trying something new with this project too. Every day I write three things I’m thankful for in my journal but with this project I’m keeping them in a jar instead. These Happiness Jars will help me to keep focused on positive things into the new year and through 2019.
Happiness Jars have been around a long time in craft circles but I’ve never decorated my own with Powertex. Of course with endless Powertex possibilities I needed to narrow down a couple of techniques! I chose Stone Art and Easy Structure techniques but fabric wrapping or Stone Art clay would be fantastic. These are the jars I made using simple techniques.
The idea is to fill them up with your wishes, intentions or thanks. Use pieces of coloured paper and write thanks each day to add to your Gratitude jar or maybe a hope to your Wish Jar or a happy moment to a Memory Jar. Read these anytime or save them up for the end of the year. They make a great boost on tough days.
Clean the jar to remove any glue from the outside. Use a plastic palette knife to add the Easy Structure paste over a couple of areas on the jar and to cover the lid. I had my embellishments ready and just pushed them into the paste. The Easy Structure is super strong and holds everything really well. I added letters, a few flowers and leaves, mdf circles from the drop outs pack and some 3d balls.
It’s a good idea to clean off any paste smudges you don’t want with a wet cloth before you leave it to dry. I left mine overnight.
Paint your textures with Powertex, I used a mix of Red and Blue Powertex (to make a dark purple) but any dark colour will work well. Wipe off any excess Powertex from the glass and leave to dry for an hour or so.
Finishing touches are done with a dry brushing technique with Copper Colortricx. Mix a little powder pigment into a tiny amount of Easy Varnish with a flat brush, for a dry paint. Wipe off the excess onto a paper towel before brushing over the textures to highlight them.
I stenciled shapes onto the jar (the Wonderland stencil was good for this). This was fairly easy because of the flat sides but would also work on a round jar. A little masking tape to hold the stencil in place helped before I applied a little Powertex through the stencil with a brush. Then press on a little Stone Art Powder while it’s wet. Brush away any excess. Repeat the shapes all over the jar and leave to dry for an hour.
For the lid, coat with Powertex and then Stone Art and add an embellishment. I added a wooden star left over from my Christmas stash.
Mixing up some Powerpearl pigment with a bit of Easy Varnish was a quick way to highlight the raised areas. I used a small brush to add the Powerpearl finish to the stenciled shapes and over the lid. Then a quick brush of Copper over the star. The perfect little jar for my wishes!
A note about working on glass
Powertex will stick to glass however it can be a bit slippery! If you want to wrap fabric around your jar, small pieces of tape can help. A light weight fabric is a good choice for this project as it might not need tape.
A new start
These jars are the perfect way to start the new year, full of thanks and hope for the coming months. There are so many ways to alter the jars and make something you can treasure all year. Whether you make a wish jar, a memory keeper or a pick-me-up jar I hope you share your creation at Powertex Addicts United so I can see! How will you use your Happiness Jar?
I’m so pleased to say that I’ll be back next year with more projects for the Powertex Design Team. It’s such a pleasure to be part of this amazing team and to be creating new projects to share here. You can also find more of my projects and blogs at Kore Sage Art.
The festive season is well under way and it’s a busy time for many. However you’re spending this time of year I hope you find some time to let your art out.
Use Powertex to put your base colours down. I used White Powertex at the top of my canvas. Use a flat brush or piece of card to drag a tiny amount of colour pigments through the wet surface. See how I dragged the colour in curves. The lower half was covered in blue Powertex. This will mostly be covered but the blue will show through in places.
Step 2 Adding Stone Art
While the blue Powertex is still wet, use your hands to cover it with Stone Art powder and press it gently into the surface. Try to avoid any wet white Powertex at the top. Gently brush off excess powder into a spare container/plate, you can use this again. See how some of the blue Powertex shows through? These layers of Powertex and Stone Art can be repeated until you are happy with the texture.
Step 3 Cardboard buildings
Cut or tear some cardboard into building shapes. I made my pieces quite large and I wanted a church shape so made a triangular roof and spire piece. You can see the shapes I cut here. I covered them with white Powertex and stuck them onto the canvas. I build up the snow and hedgerow effect at the bottom so use a thicker layer of Powertex and pile on the Stone Art, including what I had left over. Notice how uneven it is.
Step 4 Building textures
To create the building I painted the walls and roof with Powertex Lead and Terracotta although you can use blue, black or white for the walls and roof. While the Powertex is wet, add a layer of Stone Art to create a snow effect on the roof. You could also try adding sand textures to the walls. Add more Stone Art snow where you want it, using wet Powertex and leave this to dry while you make your embellishments.
Step 5 Create the details
I’ve chosen a few details to add to the landscape. The mdf gothic door was perfect for the church, painted with Lead. Paint some white card with Golden Metallic Ink to make the light in the window. Just attach the painted card to the window with a little Powertex and trim your card when dry. Tear some cardboard squares and paint with Golden Metallic Ink for the smaller windows.
Cut Hessian scraps into tall triangles, paint gently with white Powertex and then spray with green Bister. Sprinkle a little Stone Art on the tops. The hessian threads can come apart easily so use a paint brush for this.
Step 6 Pulling it together
I used some white Powertex to paint some of my snow textures to brighten them up then added my embellishments. Use Powertex to glue the pieces in place. Add any extra snow on the tops of windows with a little white Powertex. Lastly spray blue bister in the foreground and use a little on a flat brush to paint in your pathway. You could use other colours of Bister to change the mood of your scene or paint shadows.
As a finishing touch I also added some sparkle to the snow areas using some Pearl pigment and white Powercolor with some Easy Varnish to make a paint. This makes the snow glisten in the light!
I think this scene would look fantastic with a dark night sky, maybe with some iridescent pigments. If you have a go, post a picture in The Powertex Studio, I’d love to see it!
Thanks for looking at my project. If you’d like to see more of my work you can also follow me on Facebook and Instagram.
Until then, make a little time to let your art out!
Hi it’s Kore. Autumn brings bright days and chilly nights and of course Halloween! Powertex and Halloween go together like carved pumpkins and candles so what better to make this month than Halloween decorations. If you’re looking for house ghosts, grim goblets or pocket pumpkins there’s something here for you and don’t worry if you’re new to Powertex, these are easy too.
These makes are super simple and don’t need lots of products for a Halloween packed with Powertex. Think of all the questions you’ll get about how you made them!
Let’s start super simple. These little ghosts are so easy but look fantastic hanging in groups!
You’ll need: White or Transparent Powertex
Squares of light white fabric such as muslin or cheesecloth
Black paint or marker for the eyes
Thread and needle to string them up
A bottle or similar shape, covered with cling wrap
Use Powertex on squares of fabric and drape over a bottle or similar to set overnight. Paint eyes on when dry. Use thread to hang them. Easy!
Also super easy to do and can be any size or colour you want.
Small bowl and cling film or plastic bag to cover it
Piece of stockinette or other fabric to use with a dark Powertex
Powder pigment such as Violet Valentine and Easy Varnish
Massage the Powertex into your fabric and drape over the upturned bowl to set. Paint with a dry mix of pigment and Easy Varnish. I’m loving the Violet Valentine metallic pigment! Remember that Powertex is non toxic so you can put dry food in your bowls but I recommend to line them with paper or cling wrap.
Pumpkins are a must if you’re celebrating Halloween but carving fresh Pumpkins is not for everyone. I made these tiny table decorations using string and balloons, so you can make different sizes too.
String or cotton yarn Powertex (Red, Yellow Ochre, Bronze, Black or even Ivory) I mixed Red and Yellow Ochre Powder pigments and Easy Varnish
Cut lengths of string to wrap around. Inflate your balloons ready to the size you want. Massage the Powertex into the string and wrap around the balloon. Use your string end to make a stalk for the top. Leave overnight to set and cut the balloons to remove. Your string should still be soft enough to shape your pumpkins. Dry brush with highlights or metallics.
Paint your glasses with Black Powertex, then press on a layer of Stone Art. Wipe off excess and then add more Powertex and Stone Art until you’re happy with the texture. Paint over the texture with more Powertex to seal the Stone Art. Colour with metallic pigments and a layer of Easy Varnish when dry. These have a hint of Frankenstein’s monster about them.
Remember these glasses are safe to use but make sure they have had 3 weeks to cure first! Handwash gently and don’t soak them.
Then all you have to do is decorate your halloween table. Have a hair raising halloween!
Hi It’s Kore here with my autumn blog. The Autumn Equinox is on the 23rd September in the Northern Hemisphere, when day and night are equal. I love to celebrate the seasons and autumn is beautiful even when there is a storm blowing hard outside! While some of us are sad to see the summer pass for another year, the autumn brings the harvest, glorious sunsets and the changing trees.
I’ve created an autumn wreath, a simple project with lots of texture that comes alive when it’s dry brushed. It can be made any size and adapted for whatever supplies you have. It can also be easily made for any seasonal wreath, perfect for your front door, studio or home decor.
Powercolor pigments in autumn colours
Fabric strips and lengths of t-shirt yarn, ric rac, twine etc
Leaf shapes in various materials, clay, fabric, card
3d balls in small and medium
Daisy leaf mould
Small fabric flowers
Step 1 Create your frame
You can use a pre made base for your wreath, or a piece of tubing even. I chose to make mine from a piece of t-shirt yarn.
I massaged in Bronze Powertex so the fabric would set in the shape of my frame. Once it was all coated I laid it out in a circle on a non stick mat to dry. Notice I overlapped the ends to create a loop at the top for hanging.
Step 2 Create your embellishments
I created a pile of embellishments to use while my frame was drying off. I chose some wooden pieces too but decided not to use them in my final project. I die cut and hand cut leaves in card and hessian fabric. I also had some small clay leaves made using the Daisy leaf mould. These leaves have a lovely spiky shape that looks amazing when painted. You can use Stone Art clay but it will need time to dry thoroughly. Coat all card leaves with Powertex and sprinkle on some Stone Art powder for texture. Brush off any excess. Coat the leaves with Powertex when you apply them to wreath.
I also made a tiny cornucopia or horn of plenty. These are a symbol of abundance and thanksgiving and they are easy to make and look so cute!
Coat a small triangle of hessian with Powertex and roll into a cone shape and press the end together. Coat a few small and medium balls with Powertex and fill the cone. Coat tiny fabric flowers with Powertex and trim the stems short enough to tuck into the cone. Leave to dry.
Step 3 Wrap the frame
Wrap strips of fabric around the frame in spirals. Ensure your strips are well coated with Powertex, especially if you want to display your wreath outside. I started with strips of hessian about 1- 1.5 inches wide and wrapped them loosely around the set frame. Then I wrapped more t-shirt yarn, raffia, twine and rick rak until I was happy I had plenty of texture. Don’t wrap your last layers too tight. We’re going to use them to secure the leaves.
Step 4 Add the embellishments
Apply your leaves starting with the largest first and work around the whole wreath. Tuck one end into the wrapped spirals on the frame and press them into place. Keep adding leaves until you’re happy. Varying the sizes makes it more interesting to look at. Add small details to create more interest, such as the small cornucopia, and groups of small balls for berries. Leave to dry.
Step 5 Adding colour
Choose your autumn pigment colours and use Easy Varnish to create a dry paint. I used Burnt Sienna, Red Ochre, Yellow Ochre and some Orange and White for mixing. Use a flat brush to mix your pigment with Easy Varnish and start with darker colours first, add highlights last using your palest colour. Wipe excess paint onto kitchen paper first and then keep your brush flat as you paint over the textures.
Use the loop at the top to string or hang your wreath. After 3 weeks it’s weatherproof and safe to hang on your front door. I’m already planning my seasonal winter wreath!
I hope you have a go at making a wreath of your own. If you do have a go, why not share your make in The Powertex Studio on facebook or on Instagram with hashtag #powertex.
If you would like to see more of my Powertex projects you can find me at koresageart.com
Until next time, I hope you find a little time to let your art out.
Have you noticed an animal theme this month with Abigail’s adorable elephant and Donna’s beautiful afghan hound? Hi it’s Kore here with my August blog. So how about a butterfly? I know, it’s an insect really but it’s a beautiful creature that needs celebrating! I live in a busy city and don’t see too many butterflies but I have lovely memories of Buddleia bushes full of Red Admirals and Peacocks. The wonderful thing about this butterfly is that it can be made with whatever materials you have and what ever size you like for home or garden.
Creating the base
Make wings from wire and foil or cut them from thick card. Masking tape is great for covering foil. I made the body from some rolled up foil and taped this too. Rolled up paper would work too. A quick look on the internet for a template was helpful with the shape. Then the Powertex came out!
Using bright Powertex
I used Red Powertex because I wanted to experiment. There are no rules here. Use what you have to cover the wings and the body pieces. I cut pieces of cotton fabric, massaged in some red Powertex and wrapped these around the body and wings until they were all covered on both sides. It was fun to create lots of texture in the wings and make ragged edges.When the parts were covered I used pieces of fabric in Powertex to attach the wings to the body. I tucked a couple of wire antennae into the body too.
Decorating the butterfly
This where you can get really play with your favourite materials. Use what you have to add texture and colour. I covered the “back” of the wings with a mix of red Powertex and Rusty Powder and small balls. It’s one of my favourite combinations and the red gives the rust a lovely warm glow.
Try this:Spray Bister through stencils or allow it to “puddle” in the texturesSprinkle small balls or sand onto wet PowertexUse Easy Structure to create lines and shapesSprinkle Bister granules onto wet Powertex for little shots of intense colour and textureSplatter acrylic inks and paints
There are so many ways to add colour but I was really happy with using Bister sprays on my butterfly. I chose Red and Yellow and sprayed generously to let the colour run around in the textures. I also used the brown Bister to paint circles onto the back of the wings. I also used some acrylic inks from The Secret Art Loft at Powertex UK. I let Viola ink just run all over it. Let it dry!
Decorate both sides of the wings using your favourite products. The wings are a great place to try something new. This is where it’s fun to have no plan! I really enjoyed just playing and if I didn’t like something I either wiped it off or painted over it!
Adding the last highlights is really fun with Powertex. I dry brushed with orange and yellow ochre pigments in Easy Varnish first. I chose to highlight with Ivory Powertex and Limoncello metallic pigment which worked beautifully to add some sparkle.
Then a timely delivery of Metallic gold ink Powertex UK. I couldn’t resist adding some to my butterfly. It’s lush and rich and it’s going to be amazing for some autumn projects! A little on the wings and antennae for a finishing touch.
While I was waiting for one stage to dry, I took the chance to make a couple of tiny butterflies. I printed a couple of butterfly templates from the internet. I glued them onto card so I could cut out two sturdy little butterflies and then painted them with Powertex. I used less texture on these but still applied some rusty texture and then played with acrylic paints and metallic pigment powders.
The acrylic paints were in Blueberry Pie and Orange Marmalade and the pigments in Berry sour and Tequila sunrise. Gorgeous! The puddles of bister on the back of these is wonderful.
I think I’ll keep adding different textures and colour to these butterflies. Just when I think I’m done I have an idea to add something else! She’s a big butterfly too. When she’s finished, a coat of varnish (to fix the Bister) and she’ll be a lovely on an outside wall.
After a few days the Powertex will harden and fix your butterfly. In my pictures she’s still new and not hardened so I can move the wings. When you leave your butterfly to set I recommend propping up the wings so they can harden in your preferred position.
So pick out your favourite materials and decorate a butterfly. It’s time to let your art out!
If you would like to see more Powertex creations pop along to The Powertex Studio facebook group where you can share your makes too. Powertex Addicts United on Instagram has lots of inspiration from across the world.