Star dreaming inspiration

By Annette Smyth

Hello everyone. I wonder, is there such a thing as star dreaming?

I hope you are having lots of adventures in this lovely weather we are currently experiencing. One of the things I love at this time of year is being able to sit out in the warm evenings under clear skies and let my mind wander.

Star dreaming

When we look upwards with the naked eye, we can only see spots of light on a dark background. But what is really out there? Thanks to a very talented member of our family, I was able to get access to some amazing shots using astrophotography. This allowed me to get a more detailed view.

Barry Porteous has kindly allowed me to share some of his amazing work with you here. I think these images are just perfect inspiration for Powertex canvas projects. See the images below with my suggestions for the products you could use to recreate them as wall art.

Inspiration

Lunar eclipse

Lunar eclipse Powertex inspiration
Lunar eclipse by Barry Porteous

For this Powertex project – A canvas covered in Black Powertex Universal Medium with a White Powertex circle. Add Stone Art in a circle to give texture. Use Mahogany bister, Easy Varnish and white and red Powercolor to create the deep red colours.

3 day old moon

3 day old moon Powertex inspiration
3 day old moon by Barry Porteous

This Powertex project use Black Powertex Univeral Medium for the background and Ivory for the moon. Mix 3D Sand into a paste for texture. Yellow bister, White and Yellow Ochre Powercolor can be used to create these yellow colours. Mix your pigments with Easy Varnish to make a paint.

Constellation of Cygnus – The Crescent Nebula (5000 light years away)

Star dreaming inspiration
Constellation of Cygnus – the crescent nebula by Barry Porteous

Horsehead and flame nebula and the Leo triplet of galaxies

Star dreaming inspiration

Horsehead and flame nebula by Barry Porteous

Constellation of Cygnus – North American Nebula

Powertex canvas inspiration
Constellation of Cygnus – North American Nebula by Barry Porteous

Recreating Nebula images with Powertex

These Nebula images could all be recreated with Black Powertex Universal Medium for the background. Use Easy Varnish, White and Red Powercolor (dry brushed, splattered and painted for different effects.

I hope you have enjoyed these images and that you are inspired to create your own starscapes. Why not share your creations on the Powertex Studio Facebook group.

If you would like to see more inspiration ideas why not have a look at my previous article or join me for a workshop at my home studio.

Until next time, Happy Creative Adventures………Axx

Powertex Small Art Doll

Loving the Powertex Art Dolls by Annette Smyth

Powertex small art doll
Art doll

There are times in your life when you get so excited about starting a new art project that everything else just gets put on the back boiler. That’s exactly what happened when I got my hands on one of the new Powertex small art doll Template. These three new projects are launched on Hochanda on 1st February. They are going to be very popular as they offer a basis for so many styles of work.

I had the Powertex small art doll and straight away knew my girl had to be vintage and full of lovely Powertexture (ooh new word)!

So here’s a closer look at some of the elements in my project

Powertex small art doll
Tree bark effect

The backboard of my piece has a tree bark effect. To get this I used Easy 3D Flex and sprayed it with yellow bister then left it to dry overnight. The next day I used a damp sponge to remove some of the bister. Then drybrushed with Powercolor black and white.

Powertex small art doll
3D faces – plaster and rice paper
Powertex small art doll
Powertex small art doll

I wanted my girl to have a 3D face so I took one of the Powertex medium plaster faces and matched it (by size) to a face on the Victorian rice paper.

I carefully cut out the rice paper face. Applied Easy Coat Matt varnish to both the plaster and the back of the rice paper then carefully married the 2 together. Using a soft clean paintbrush to help push the eyes into the right place. Go very carefully as it is a delicate process.


Powertex small art doll
pigments and wax

On the limbs I used the Secret Art Loft Pearl pigments mixed into the Powerwax. This gives a beautiful blended finish with a soft sheen. The Powerwax is a really great way of adding layers of colour to any of your work.

I took the Powertex quote stencil and used the top quote by Robert Henri. By cutting this down into individual words and phrases I was able to place the words onto the individual areas more easily.

Powertex texture
Structure Paste words and texture

Along with the words, the texture on the wings and headdress were all created with Easy Structure Paste. It holds its shape brilliantly and takes colour really well.

Share you Powertex makes with us

Well I’m off now to have more fun with these gorgeous girlies, but can’t wait to see what you create with these wonderful templates. Don’t forget to post your makes on our facebook page.

Also checkout the blog posts from the other Design Team members – they’re amazing.

Find your local Powertex tutor

And if you’d like to attend an Art Doll workshop get in touch with your local tutor.

Catch my Powertex sculpture project from last month

Did you catch my article for last month, follow the hyperlink for another chance to have a look here. Until next time, Happy Creative Adventures……

Annette

Tropical Powertex Art Doll

Tropical Powertex Art Doll – Mixed Media project by Anne

I have never tried making an Art Doll before and I had so much fun making this Tropical Powertex Art Doll. I wanted to make her really bright and cheerful with a tropical feel – the fabulous zingy cocktail colours from The Secret Art Loft Pigments, Inks, and Acrylics range were perfect.

AW Art Doll 2

Materials Used 

Extras used on the canvas: A4 canvas board, White Paper Decoration, 3D Sand and Balls, Assorted Lace Strips, dried beech nut outer shells and pine cone, small paper clay flowers, old key, gold glitter plus mix blue & green seed beads.

How to create a Tropical Powertex Art Doll

AW Art Doll 1

Firstly I popped out the MDF components from the sheet and coated with Ivory or Bronze Powertex Fabric Hardener and left to dry. The box frame was constructed and hanger section attached (the Powertex acts as a glue too). I also coated one of the ‘waste pieces’ because I thought would make a great bird shape to insert into the box frame.

AW Art Doll 4

Then I cut a background panel for the box frame from the FAB images on the packaging sheet. And glued in place using Easycoat decoupage medium. Using Acrylic Inks in order to add a tint of colour.

I applied Easy Structure paste through a texture stencil onto the large background panel and to sections of the frame. Then used the Art Quotes Stencil to apply text to the frame, and to random sections of text on the wings.

When dry, I used translucent inks to tint the text on the frame. Colouring the outer background panel with Lemon Meringue and Orange Marmalade acrylics. Also brushing over with some Metallic Golden Ink to highlight the texture, before sticking down the box frame.

I coloured the birdy shaped waste MDF piece with acrylic paints. And stuck down into the box in layers using Transparent Powertex. I used Ivory Powertex to coat and stick the metallic embellishment. Bronze Powertex coated the beak and eyes created with seed beads ( I drizzled Bronze Powertex into the bead hole using a cocktail stick, which created dark centres).

The fabric flowers were coated with Transparent Powertex and massaged into the aqua cotton fibres. To embed the seed beads I drizzled some around the sides. Transparent Powertex was mixed with sand to make a 3D glue paste to help hold the flower stems in place.

More acrylic paints were used to colour, and to brush over textured surfaces. Easy Varnish was used to stick down sequins, and to embed glitter which was brushed over sections for extra sparkle. Pearl Pigments in Varnish were also applied with dry brushing to add shimmer. I just love a bit of bling.

Powertex Art Doll

The headdress and face were dry brushed with Pink Flamingo and Limoncello Gold Pigments mixed with Easy Varnish. Sequins and beads were also added for more texture and bling. 1mm wire was used to make a hanging loop.

The wings were coloured with Acrylic Paints and Gold Ink and …  yes I had to add some glitter sparkle too.

Fabric strips and ribbon were treated with Transparent Powertex and used to wrap sections of plastic tubing to create beads for the upper arms and legs. The upper arms were attached with 1mm wire, through the holes in the box frame, in such a way that they were held in place (i.e. not dangling). This enabled the lower arm dangles to hang each side of the body.

AW Art Doll 5

I attached the upper leg sections so that they hung freely at the base giving movement. And dry brushed the lower arm and leg shapes with Varnish and Pearl Pigments, sticking beads down with Transparent Powertex. These were hung from the upper arm and leg beads using wire loops so they dangled freely. Next leaf and flower bead dangles were also added to the frame base and legs using 0.8mm wire (1mm was too thick to fit the bead holes).

The floral MDF shape was painted with acrylics, embellished with a metal filigree shapes and seed beads before gluing to the main background panel.

AW Art Doll 3

My finished Art Doll just makes me so happy. I love her bright happy colours. Plenty of bling and dangles too – cannot help but smile.

Having used the provided shapes to create her I looked at the pile of waste MDF bits left behind – they inspired me to create a canvas. I never waste anything – ha ha.

mixed media powertex canvas

I coloured the background canvas with Bronze Powertex. Texture and the text was then applied using Easy Structure paste through the stencils. I just love this sentiment from the Art Quotes Stencil.

All the waste bits were coated with Ivory Powertex and applied down. But I tried not to think about it too much – as I can spend hours procrastinating on positioning stuff! I just wanted to be free and ‘go for it’ and see what happened.

mixed media powertex canvas

I then started coating some of the embellishments and building up the scene. Sand & Balls were added into wet Powertex and then coloured with inks and by dropping in some pigment powders.

Then I built up a sort of tree on the left hand side using Paper Decoration and lace, adding the Beech nuts and pine cone to embellish.

mixed media powertex canvas

I then added more acrylic colour, and stuck the beads by embedding in wet Transparent Powertex. Pearl Pigments were mixed with varnish for dry brushing over some of the textures. Finally I just couldn’t help myself but had to add some gold glitter mixed into the varnish. More yummy bling.

The finished piece is fairly crazy and abstract but I was pleased with it. I thought that it looked like a foreground beach with water, sand and trees, then rising up in the background were buildings positioned up a hillside. A kind of tropical paradise I thought. You may see something completely different. That is the joy of abstract art. I had to pop in the key to ‘unlock the mystery’. I hope that you like my mad idea for using up all the scrap MDF bits.

Looking for inspiration? Find more projects on the Powertex UK Mixed Media Magazine. Please do share your makes with us in the Powertex Studio and leave and comments or questions in the section below this article.

Bye for now, Anne x.

Twinkle Twinkle Little Star – Powertex mixed media – Fiona Potter

Wow can you believe it’s the end of another year. What a year we had with the best, hottest, longest summer the UK has had in a good few years. If you have been following me on social media you will know that I’ve had quite an astral year and to end the theme I have created this rather cute Powertex Stone Art Star. Here’s how I did it…
You will need a star base with hanger, Powertex in Ivory or White, Stone Art Powder, Extra fine snow glitter, fake snow and iridescent glitter flakes,Secret Art Loft Interference Lilac or Interference Blue Pigment, Powertex Easy Varnish and some flat back crystals with AB coating.
Working on one star arm at a time, brush on some Powertex Liquid Medium then gently press some stone art powder over the painted area. You might see some Powertex oozing out and if you do just press more Stone Art Powder over it. Once you have coated the star on both sides it will look like this:
Now dab on some more Powertex Liquid Medium and repeat the first step until you have completed three layers. This will give you a good strong finish. Let it dry. Next paint on a very fine layer of Powertex Liquid Medium on one full side and press the fine snow glitter into it. Repeat on the other side until it looks similar to this
Leave it to dry and clean away the excess glitter.
Top Tip: Keep a separate box for the left over stone Art powder, glitter and flake from this project – you can use it with Powertex in another project!
Once it is dry, use some Powertex Easy Varnish and Secret Art Loft Interference Lilac or Interference Blue pigment and add along the spine of each of the star arms. This will create highlights.
Once this has dried, add a light layer of Powertex to the outer edges of the star arms on both sides and press in some of the fake snow and iridescent glitter flakes.
Once this is dry add the final touch of some tiny AB coated flat back crystals. These will really catch the light. Leave it to dry well before adding to your festive house.
All that leaves me to do is to thank you for following us here on the the Powertex Blog and on Hochanda. I look forward to seeing your festive makes in The Powertex Studio and Powertex Addicts United.
I wish you all a very Merry of Christmas and may all your dreams come true!
See you in 2019 for lots more Powertex Fun!
Fi xx

Northern Lights

Well here we are Autumn is almost over the dark nights are with us. I love crisp cold dark nights when I can see lots of stars twinkling in the sky after the stunning colours of the setting sun. Here in the UK there a only a handful of places where, if the conditions are right you might spot the Northern Lights. Going to Norway or Iceland to see the Northern Lights is high on my bucket list but until then, I have created my own abstract Powertex painting to stir or feed that dream!

So grab a coffee and relax while I take you through some very simple steps to create your own version.
First I took a canvas that had been part used on a demonstration and it already had some texture at the bottom. I had created the texture using a mix of Easy Structure and Powertex sand balls which I put down on a white 30×30 cm canvas.
I then made up some Easy 3D Flex with some white powertex and using a metal artist pallet knife I spread the 3D Flex mixture vertically on my canvas. As the base texture was already dry, I painted over a good coat of White Powertex.
Next I mixed up some blue bister granules using a teaspoon of granules to 30 mls of warm water from the kettle with 30mls of white vinegar. This gives a crisper look when sprayed on your canvas as can be seen in the image below. I also sprayed some standard black bister at the top area of the sky section
To give more depth I sprinkled some blue bister granules onto the area representing water and rocks and sprayed this with water.
I then left the whole thing to dry and crack over two or three days.
Once it was dry I washed back the black area of bister using a damp sponge. I then used a mix of the Aqua blue and Deep Sea Secret Art Loft acrylic inks to create the dark water and sky. I then used Secret Art Loft acrylic paints in Key Lime, Blueberry Pie and Plumb Pudding on a very dry brush to create the colours synonymous with the Northern Lights.
I then added some metallic highlights using Golden Metallic and Viola Metallic inks as well as Green Ginger, Limoncello Gold and Colortricx Pearl pigments mixed with Powertex Easy Varnish.
I can’t tell you exactly how I added the pigments and colours as I use loads and loads of very light layers, just experiement and have fun!
Here is the finished piece

 

Here is a short video tour of the painting giving closeups on my colour blending.

 


See you in December where I have created a Powertex Christmas Ornament!

Bye for now
Fi

Halloween Nightmare or how not to make a craft video!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I bet I am one of the few people who have a dread of Halloween. It’s not that it scares me or that I don’t like the art of it all, it’s just that for some reason every time I try to create what’s in my head, it turns into a Halloween Nightmare!!!

I had this grand idea that I would use Powertex and some of the super Secret Art Loft bright acrylics and the Gothic Arches.
It has all worked out just fine except I had it all planned in my head that I would create my very first Craft Video!

As you may know that as well as being on the Powertex DT I am also a Resident Tutor on the Mixed Up Creative education platform, so in my infinite wisdom and being filled with oodles of enthusiasm I got myself all set up to create the video for them.  Bearing in mind I also have lots of experience demo’ing on TV craft channels this should all be so easy…well believe me it isn’t!

In a TV studio there is a crew, superb lighting and a presenter who asks the questions viewers want answers too; you have your step pieces prepared and you have everything laid out ready to head in the order you want to use them. Oh and with filming, all you have to think about is product placement and which camera to look at.
Hmmm this is where it all goes belly up!  I didn’t have steps planned this was going to be a one shot product.  I had just one small light; I had to operate the camera in my very small studio – just 3 meters by 1.5 meters but every mm is packed tight rather tardis like!
I had it all planned though so it would run like clock work.
I made sure my long suffering other half knew what I was doing and he was primed to stay well away.
OMG it was a total nightmare!!!
Not at all the slick professional looking video I had imagined, planned for and not at all fun! It was my Halloween Nightmare and then some!  Dropping various bits, forgetting I had wrecked the first arch and the second had sticky tape on etc. etc.  Worse still is that that what you don’t see or hear at the end of the video is my husband walking in on me, talking loudly about tea, apologising profusely, then me slinging the paintbrush and who knows what else across the worktop and sighing so loud I have every expectation even a Ghost would have shrieked in fright!
After all that I decided while it was a rubbish video I would share my experience with you because at the end of the day we all have to start somewhere.  Hat’s off to all those highly polished artists and crafters who have mastered the intricacies of video, I am learning, I will not be defeated and I will master it.
In the meantime have a laugh with me, share my pain and I hope the resulting Powertex Halloween tag is slightly OK.
Bye for now, Fi xx
ps Here’s the link to the video

 

Seasonal Autumn Wreath

Hi It’s Kore here with my autumn blog. The Autumn Equinox is on the 23rd September in the Northern Hemisphere, when day and night are equal. I love to celebrate the seasons and autumn is beautiful even when there is a storm blowing hard outside! While some of us are sad to see the summer pass for another year, the autumn brings the harvest, glorious sunsets and the changing trees.

I’ve created an autumn wreath, a simple project with lots of texture that comes alive when it’s dry brushed. It can be made any size and adapted for whatever supplies you have. It can also be easily made for any seasonal wreath, perfect for your front door, studio or home decor.

Ingredients

 

Bronze Powertex
Powercolor pigments in autumn colours
Easy Varnish
Flat brush
Fabric strips and lengths of t-shirt yarn, ric rac, twine etc
Leaf shapes in various materials, clay, fabric, card
3d balls in small and medium

Optional supplies

Stone art
Daisy leaf mould
Small fabric flowers

Step 1 Create your frame

 

You can use a pre made base for your wreath, or a piece of tubing even. I chose to make mine from a piece of t-shirt yarn.

I massaged in Bronze Powertex so the fabric would set in the shape of my frame. Once it was all coated I laid it out in a circle on a non stick mat to dry. Notice I overlapped the ends to create a loop at the top for hanging.

Step 2 Create your embellishments

 

I created a pile of embellishments to use while my frame was drying off. I chose some wooden pieces too but decided not to use them in my final project. I die cut and hand cut leaves in card and hessian fabric. I also had some small clay leaves made using the Daisy leaf mould. These leaves have a lovely spiky shape that looks amazing when painted. You can use Stone Art clay but it will need time to dry thoroughly. Coat all card leaves with Powertex and sprinkle on some Stone Art powder for texture. Brush off any excess. Coat the leaves with Powertex when you apply them to wreath.

I also made a tiny cornucopia or horn of plenty. These are a symbol of abundance and thanksgiving and they are easy to make and look so cute!

Coat a small triangle of hessian with Powertex and roll into a cone shape and press the end together. Coat a few small and medium balls with Powertex and fill the cone. Coat tiny fabric flowers with Powertex and trim the stems short enough to tuck into the cone. Leave to dry.

Step 3 Wrap the frame

 

Wrap strips of fabric around the frame in spirals. Ensure your strips are well coated with Powertex, especially if you want to display your wreath outside. I started with strips of hessian about 1- 1.5 inches wide and wrapped them loosely around the set frame. Then I wrapped more t-shirt yarn, raffia, twine and rick rak until I was happy I had plenty of texture. Don’t wrap your last layers too tight. We’re going to use them to secure the leaves.

Step 4 Add the embellishments

 

Apply your leaves starting with the largest first and work around the whole wreath. Tuck one end into the wrapped spirals on the frame and press them into place. Keep adding leaves until you’re happy. Varying the sizes makes it more interesting to look at. Add small details to create more interest, such as the small cornucopia, and groups of small balls for berries. Leave to dry.

Step 5 Adding colour

Choose your autumn pigment colours and use Easy Varnish to create a dry paint. I used Burnt Sienna, Red Ochre, Yellow Ochre and some Orange and White for mixing. Use a flat brush to mix your pigment with Easy Varnish and start with darker colours first, add highlights last using your palest colour. Wipe excess paint onto kitchen paper first and then keep your brush flat as you paint over the textures.

Use the loop at the top to string or hang your wreath. After 3 weeks it’s weatherproof and safe to hang on your front door. I’m already planning my seasonal winter wreath!

I hope you have a go at making a wreath of your own. If you do have a go, why not share your make in The Powertex Studio on facebook or on Instagram with hashtag #powertex.

If you would like to see more of my Powertex projects you can find me at koresageart.com

Until next time, I hope you find a little time to let your art out.
Kore x

How to build an alternative statue ……..

Hello everyone, Annette here……

I hoped you’ve all had a stunning Summer and are ready for an awesome Autumn.

My challenge this month was to create a statue representing the star sign Virgo……mmm that certainly made the old brain cells fizz.  SO……Virgo is represented by the virgin carrying wheat and she is an Earth sign.  With this knowledge I set off on my creative adventure.

Using the wood and metal base, I pushed this through a polystyrene egg (my egg came in 2 parts so I secured it was making tape around the centre and top to bottom) and then packed the bottom of the spike with foil to stop the egg from slipping down.  I used the egg so that I could get a nice full skirt that was supported underneath.

I then built up the top of the egg so that when the plaster head was seated on top the proportions were more balanced.


To attach the head, I used Grace from the European range,  take a piece of foil and wrap it around the figure just below the shoulders and attach to the plaster with masking tape (only a small amount needs to be on the plaster as this will determine your neckline).

Now open up the pocket you have made, with the foil, and sit it on top of the extended egg.  You may need to tear up the sides slightly to get it to sit properly.  Secure with masking tape making sure it is well attached.

 

As my statue is going to be carrying something, I needed to add hands and arms.  Take a piece of foil and fold it to create a narrow strip.  Place the hands at either end ensuring that the thumbs are pointing upwards at both ends.  Now wrap the foil around the wrists and secure with masking tape.

Take this strip and lay along the back of the plaster head placing the hands to the front.  Check the positioning of the hands and if necessary fold the strip back onto itself behind the shoulders if the arms are too long.  Secure to the back with more masking tape.

Using small pieces of foil fill out the arms and round them out.  Also check that you are happy with the shaping at the waist and the back of the statue, use pieces of foil to build out any areas which need more shaping.

Once you are happy with the overall shape and positioning cover everything with masking tape and then coat the whole statue, including the plaster head, body and base with a layer of Ivory Powertex. Lay a small piece of clingfilm between the hands and body to stop them sticking together.

Now let this dry

For the clothing I used Ivory Powertex and worked it through strips of Natural Paper Decoration for the bodice/sleeves and muslin for the skirt, I used four separate pieces of muslin so that I could shape each piece over the fullness of the egg.  It is also easier to work with smaller pieces that one larger piece.

Let this dry.

I liked her at this stage and would be happy leaving her here however she needed something to represent the Earth sign so…..

I took a piece of Powertex Rice Paper (the one I choose had images of the earth/sun and moon on which fitted perfectly with the Earth sign) and using a wet paintbrush I drew around the shapes I wanted before pulling them from the piece.  This causes a feathered edge which blends into your background better than a cut straight edge.

Using Powertex Easy Coat Matt varnish, I attached the pieces to the dry clothing.  I coated both the clothing and the back of the rice paper then pressed the piece into place.  Using a soft brush starting at the centre of the rice paper smooth it out towards the edges,  this stops it tearing and ensures it is all stuck down.  Now take some more varnish and coat the front of the rice paper ensuring you go over the edges.

Leave this to dry

]

She now needed colour adding in to pull everything together.

On a spare piece of fabric I tried using tea stain to see if this would work but decided it was too flat.

I played around and found that the Powercolor Yellow worked perfectly so I mixed this with Easy Varnish and heavily dry brushed the clothing.

For the hair I mixed the yellow with mocha Powercolor to give it more interest.  The eyeliner and eyebrows are a thin line of Bronze Gold  Colortrix and varnish  and the lipstick is coral Powercolor.

To finish her, I found some seed heads in a nearby field and made a small bunch for her to hold.

 

 

You could make a statue to represent any of the Zodiac star signs and use different rice papers to tie into the specific attributes of the sign.

I hope you’ve enjoyed this project and look forward to seeing what you make.  Don’t forget to post your pictures on our facebook Powertex Addicts United or Powertex Studio

Until next time, happy Creative Adventures

Axx

Steampunk Jewellery Plier Stands (by Anne)

I have been meaning to decorate my jewellery plier stands for ages and finally got them finished.
I had a bit of a problem with these in that they started off as a plain varnished wood surface. I initially coated them with white Gesso with a view to painting them with acrylics. However, the Gesso did not bind well to the varnish layer – eek! All ideas were halted. These need to be fairly robust and a tonne of flaky chips after a short use was not what I wanted!
I then discovered Powertex and yay, I would be able to rescue and decorate my plier stands after all. Coating the entire surface with rice papers and torn kitchen towels would create a tough protective skin over the surface and prevent the feared chipping off of the base layers.
HOW IT WAS DONE
I first collected together lots of embellishments; die cut cogs and pipework (Sizzix dies), MDF Keyplate (Powertex), metal clock hand and chains, old light bulbs and screws.
I tore out images from Creative Rice Paper (Powertex). This particular sheet seems to be out of stock but there is a similar Victorian Steampunk Paper available. I also separated layers of kitchen paper and tore them into pieces to coat the surface. This would add texture and a protective layer.
STAGE ONE
First I applied the torn decorative papers using Easy Coat Mat Medium. Ivory Powertexwas then painted on to blend in the image edges.
STAGE TWO
Next layers of kitchen paper were bonded all over the surface. Some were glued down with Ivory and some with Terracotta Powertex. Die cut card embellishments were also coated with Powertex and glued down.
Texture was added by applying Easy Structure Pastethrough a texture stencil.
I also had a try at the rust technique. I mixed some Rusty Powder into Ivory Powertex along with a few drops of white wine vinegar. This was painted and dribbled over the surface (extra powder sprinkled on top) and spritzed with water and vinegar before leaving overnight to develop. I spritzed at intervals, several times. I avoided the areas that will be in contact with my pliers.
STAGE THREE
Next I brushed over and added colour using Acrylic Inks in Tangerine, Egg Yolk, Aqua and Metallic Gold.
STAGE FOUR
I also applied a little gold Pebeo Gilding Wax on some areas. When fully dry and cured (I left them for 3 weeks) I coated the surface with Easy Varnish to fully seal and protect.
I have included lots of images of how all the surfaces were built up.
Texture and die cut cogs have been added.
Rust and colour added.
Side finished with stronger thick greyboard embellishments. Any large embellishments protruding from edges need to be strong (thinner card would be prone to warp and bend).
I started with a larger clock image on the other side.
Die cuts and texture added plus a metal clock hand for dimension.
Finally finished with thicker embellishments and more dry brush work and gilding wax.
Love this character.
Texture and layers built up. Waiting for the rust to develop.
Building up the layers of transparent colour makes so much difference.
The second plier stand started off in the same way.
At this stage you might feel like giving up. What a mess!
Just keep going, adding layers of rust texture and colour. 

 

Just loving the gorgeous layers of texture and colour.
I used several layers of the die cut pipework together to make them thicker and stronger on this side.
Wooohooo – this is soooooo yummy (or is it just me – tee hee).
Another end panel.
I used an MDF keyplate (Powertex) to embellish this end.
The final colouring makes such a difference.
The final side had a couple of little storage wells. I won’t really be using these so a perfect place to embellish with larger items.
I had fun adding recycled light bulbs, screws and bits of chain etc. I used structure paste and Powertex treated kitchen paper as a 3D glue to hold things in place.
Initially I had added a thinner die cut cog to the end but it wasn’t really strong enough. Here I added another thick greyboard cog over the first. Much more practical. I also added a small MDF Butterfly.
Here you can see more of the Steampunk treasures added. I also added some 3D Sand and Balls.
Love this Steampunk birdie peering out.
Well I hope that all these pictures have not overwhelmed you. I wanted to show how all the stages were built up. It also shows the stages that look awful, perhaps where a beginner might give up! Remember, if it all goes wrong just keep applying colour, inks or coloured varnishes. If this fails and you are really not happy – just paint over the whole thing with a base colour of Powertex and start again.
Hugs, Anne xxx.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

Floral Trinket Box created (by Anne)

I have had a wire box frame in my stash for ages. Originally it had a woven straw covering that fell apart so I removed it with the intention of recovering it. It ended up as another ‘UFO’ (unfinished object) for years. I have finally dug it out and created this Powertex treated fabric box embellished with hand made fabric flowers. Now it’s a fabulous trinket box for storing some of my crafty treasures.
The bare wire frame is a strong construction – similar to the type of wire used to make coat hangers. It measures approx. 8 inches square across the top and 6 inches deep.
I used some recycled cotton bed sheets and treated them with Black Powertexto cover the box and lid. I lined the outer and inner panels to completely cover the wire frame. I gathered some cotton trims for the next stage; some crochet lace and a piece of gathered Broderie Anglaise.
I treated the crochet lace with Powertex and applied around the box base.
The gathered lace was applied around the lid. I also dug out some greyboard lazer cut foliage shapes to embellish the top. These were coated and stuck down with Powertex. When dry I started dry brushing over the surface using Easy Varnish and Silver Colotricx. Extra colour was applied to the foliage to make it stand out from the dry brushed background.
Here you can see the dry brushed lid next to the unpainted base. The dry brushing has emphasised the texture and added metallic highlights.
Next I made some fabric roses from 25mm and 15mm strips cut from recycled bedding. These were created using Ribbon Ruching Flower Combs from Gina B-Silkworks. Basically strips are marked out using the Flower Comb templates, a running stitch is sewn along the marked lines and the stitching is pulled up to gather and shape into a rose. I prepared my strips and treated with Powertex before pulling up the stitching. The Powertex holds and glues the gathering in place. I left the flowers to dry before adding to the box top.
I used one of my dies to cut a frame for the centre (Sizzix), applied to the top and finished in the same way as the greyboard foliage.
The flowers were dry brushed with Easy Varnish and Interference Lilac Pigment. Loving these new Pearl Pigment colours! Powertex was then used to glue down the roses to the centre. I added some ready made flower stamens around the group (purple), and some small ready made satin ribbon roses to the corners (Powertex treated and coloured).
Next I mixed some 3D Sand and Ballsinto Black Powertex and drizzled the mix around the flowers. A few untreated balls were also dropped into the wet Powertex. The untreated balls kept their original colour on the surface giving contrast with the black base. Once dry I coloured by brushing over the surface using Easy Varnish and Mojito Lime Pigment.
I also dry brushed a little of the Lilac pigment sparingly over the lace trims and used to colour some hand made air dry clay embellishments (created using a silicone mould from my stash) added to the box corners.
I used one of my large rubber stamps (lace design from Heartfelt Creations) to stamp some extra textural interest around the sides using Viola Metallic Acrylic Ink. Note: the fabric surface is already quite textured and not very flat so the stamping does not give a clear impression of the design but just adds a little more depth and interest to the surface.
I hope that you like my new treasure box.
Hugs, Anne xxx.